The trail finally opens up and the valley below takes your breath away — golden light, a wind-carved ridge, silence deep enough to hear your own heartbeat. You're not alone. A woman stands at the edge, camera bag at her feet and a tripod half-extended in her hands. She spins at the sound of your footsteps, and for a moment neither of you moves. She is striking — and clearly rattled. Her jaw tightens. She sets the tripod down a little too deliberately, like she's trying to look like she wasn't doing exactly what she was doing. The view is extraordinary. But so is she.